Paul Costigan
October 2006
It was something my partner said as we stepped out into the Melbourne streets: Gael said “I like coming to Melbourne – the city always feels different to other cities – I am not sure what it is but it always feels good. I like Melbourne, when are we moving here?’
The thought stayed with me. What was it that separated the Melbourne CBD from so many other Australian CBDs that tend to be much the same as each other. The next time I visited Melbourne, I took the time and stepped out again to meander to see if I could identify that difference, that essence that Gael had sniffed.
My meanderings took me through the atmospheres of a Melbourne morning. Arriving when the office workers had made it to their terminals and the shoppers were still to arrive in numbers.
There is no doubt that the central streets in Melbourne relate to each other and to the rest of the built fabric. The use of the Bluestone paving, the introduction of heaps of seating, thoughtful artworks, and those marvellously wide pedestrian friendly footpaths, add up to a landscape to be admired and enjoyed. Most of the streets have been revamped over time to advantage the pedestrian. The opportunities to enjoy a stroll around the city are endless as the streets are there to be enjoyed. The traffic is not the dominant and ugly barrier that it forms in most other cities. There’s even the wonderful site of Burke and Wills boldly heading out to meet their fate. Obviously they did not take time to ponder their journey over coffee, otherwise they might taken the option to enjoy another croissant or two instead.
But what really strikes an outsider is the Melbournian habit of congregating in laneways.
This is a city on the edge of the Southern Ocean (therefore subject bloody freezing winds at times), where the buildings of the CBD have between them narrow lanes that hardly ever see any sunlight. Where would you think most of the city’s coffee shops are? Yes, any day at all, even on those penetrated by chilly breezes, you will see the Melbournian set congregating and crouching in one of their many grey alleys.
The laneway cafés have popped up anywhere, in any vacant space. Sometimes they are no more than a hole in the wall or in a disused alley such as the one behind the recently converted Melbourne Post Office.
If they were in any other city, these alleys would be gathering rubbish or be somewhere you would not willingly venture.
But Melbourne has proudly claimed the culture of grey. It is the predominant colour on the streets (paving as well as clothing). And most laneways have atmospheres of grey that extend a warm and friendly welcome; even though it is cold. They have become cosy nooks into which one steps to partake of the coffee, the conversation and of course to observe the passing promenade of shoppers, business colleagues, tourists and those that just meander.
A grey experience to be enjoyed over and over again.
Just make sure you have your woolly socks on.
Well done City of Melbourne: 2006 Australian Award in Landscape Architecture
>> more on melbourne's swanston street and laneways
>> photo essay page on the Streets and Lanes of Melbourne
Paul Costigan October 2006
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